Location: Bodorgan, Isle of Anglesey, GB, you can also use it to speed up a party of 3 on a multi pitch climb as the first 2 climb normally, trailing and fixing a second rope for the third to come up on (top)self belayed. By If you needed slack in a panic, pull the cord. The first two pitches are free so that makes things interesting, but of course you can use aid on them. The device is totally CNC machined from aerospace alloys no castings are used. At that time, Rock Exotica took over production of the Silent Partner once again. This browser is not supported by Wikiwand :( Wikiwand requires a browser with modern capabilities in order to provide you with the best reading experience.Please download and use one of the following browsers: An extension you use may be preventing Wikiwand articles from loading properly. Certainly the Silent Partner is smoother but it costs way too much. You will need to temporarily disable your Ad-blocker to view this page. If you plan on free-climbing trad routes, you sick bastard, just call meyou're the kind of partner I'm always looking for, hopefully you like squeeze chimneys too. The Silent partner is bigger than you'd expect, and a little pricey at $225, but if you're wall climbing in the first place you've got a few grand invested in gear alreadybite the bullet and buy it, nothing else comes close for mixed aid and free (self-feeding, holding any fall,etc). I talked to Wren Industries and they highly recommend backtying with the soloist and solo aid, and the soloist (I think that's the cheaper one) won't catch an upside down fall. UKClimbing Limited. I think the manufacturers are trying to cover their rear more than anything. Choice of rope makes a huge difference on how it feeds. Fine Corinthian Leather. I sold it as soon as I got back. 1 sold, 0 available. Rock Climbing Southwest | I also used a soloaid until somebody decided to break into my home and rid me of my entire rack. From some other readings it sounds like it works, but is not as smooth as the silent partner. 483+ items sold. copyrighted, dedicated to the public domain by copyright holder, released into the public domain by the copyright holder, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wren_Industries_Silent_Partner.jpg, {{BotMoveToCommons|en.wikipedia|year={{subst:CURRENTYEAR}}|month={{subst:CURRENTMONTHNAME}}|day={{subst:CURRENTDAY}}}} {{Information |Description={{en|Alan Silva 2004 Collection Wren Industries 2004 Silent Partner}} |Source=Transferred from [http://en.wi, Flash did not fire, compulsory flash suppression. Seller: pamlai (483) 100%, The literature says that a climber shouldn't depend on it to hold a fall!? You can help our automatic cover photo selection by reporting an unsuitable photo. As a self-belay device - a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead - the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. So if you have a grigri already I think you'd be wasting your money on the soloist or solo-aid. WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS. Yep, we are still going! I haven't used the silent partner (due to cost), but it would be my first choice. It requires a strong understanding of advanced rigging techniques. I also did some research on the web; Nate Beckwith suggests, for a Grigri, to let it hang from your belay biner w/o using a chest harness if you are aiding; it will definitely need to be hand-fed but is more likely to catch an upside down fall also. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device.https://www.rockexotica.com/silent-partner/This Silent Partner is listed for sale elsewhere so the auction may be ended early. All rights reserved. That's the one that's no longer there, caused by an unrelated event, although gravity had been tugging on it for years. Super high amount watching. Big Wall Rock Climbing Yosemite | Thanks again for stopping by. Climb at your own risk. Great seller with very good positive feedback and over 50 ratings. Rock Exotica handled the manufacturing until Wren Industries took over production in the late '90s. The following pages on the English Wikipedia use this file (pages on other projects are not listed): (1,600 1,200 pixels, file size: 374 KB, MIME type: Commons is a freely licensed media file repository. I feel more comfortable free soloing a 5.2, than I do soloing a 5.8 with a soloist. Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 30, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 18, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 17, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Mar 31, 2019, http://www.spadout.com/p/wren-silent-partner/, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230326929288&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123, http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/item/614220/N/0/afl/430/CMP/KNC-70110/cmpn/70110, The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot to and from the headwaters. When the GriGri is used in that configuration (with a chest harness), a fall with the rope feeding to the climbers right will cause the rope to load across the knife edge like piece of metal leading up to the handle. I've always backed it up anyway. 0% negative feedback. Thanks for posting, this must be an original subject I'd have thought. As a self-belay device - a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead - the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. Finally, I also adjusted a GriGri by drilling the hole and filing off the v shaped flap as mentioned in a posting above. Total death on a stick. I've used a soloist and found the rope drag and inability to traverse exceptionally frustrating. I've climbed el cap with mine only ever taken one 5 meter fall while aid climbing on el cap Yosemite, A soft fall and reinforced my confidence in the device so much so I used it later in the UK to climb new routes and loose rock routes too. It is big and quite bulky to use; and while free climbing the rope does not run as good as anybody would patiently hope. Still, you need to backtie. Rock Climbing Zion | Got feedback? I would much rather free solo the 5.2 than rope solo a 5.8. Out of those devices I would definitely choose the silent partner. Guess you'd have to ask Wren or Mark Blanchard. All rights reserved. Around 2008, Wren Industries was sold and the new owners were not interested in producing self-belay devices. 1. "The blind climber talks about gear because he can't see the mountains." If you don't want to shell out the cash and you won't be casting off on free climbing leads just use a clove hitch. Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica. With my set up including bungy cord to hold the weight of the rope and back up knots etc, I found apart from the fact solo climbing is not safe in terms of rescue etc, this system works better than some climbing partners if experienced, Just interested is there a silent partner fan club who else loves their mechanical device and would you part with yours. Don't buy one. Note however that the SP is said not to work below freezing. Climbing Alaska. Cover photo is available under {{::mainImage.info.license.name || 'Unknown'}} license. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming a UKC Supporter, or UKC Supporter Plus which Good beta, dude. It sounds like you've covered a hell of a lot of ground with yours, Luke Do you have any useful tips you've picked up through practice? Again, though- dangerous for aid climbing cause the rope will feed all too well in an upside down fall. After reading the instuction manual, I like the way it works gently with the rope on a clove hitch locking concept. Around 2008, Wren Industries was sold and the new owners were not interested in producing self-belay devices. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Item: 113375105101 This file contains additional information, probably added from the digital camera or scanner used to create or digitize it. This is not a device for novice climbers. For faster navigation, this Iframe is preloading the Wikiwand page for, Note: preferences and languages are saved separately in https mode. 3. One question for willstrickland: do you back up your silent partner with a clove-hitch. I have used my soloist a little, and frankly I don't trust it much. more likely to get that burr chewing rope. If you intend to self-belay on top-rope they all work ok, but since I already have a gri-gri I just use it, UNMODIFIED. Links | Terms | Privacy | FAQ | Contact My fall was relatively small, but I walked away cursing myself for being so stupid as to not realize that possibility in the first place. I do not think it worths the price the retailer asks for. I recently acquired one and am looking forward to getting to grips with it on some of the multi-pitch stuff here in Japan this spring. You replace it with an eye-screw of the same sizeviola a place to rig a keeper loop so you don't drop the fucker when taking it off the rope (not good 1800' up an A3+)The reality is that you'll be reeling in all the slack every move or two and any fall you take will load the system almost immediatelyeliminating the head-first scenario. Climbing is dangerous. and should always back it up. the biggest factor is what are you going to use it for? Silent Partner self belay device by Wren Industries (Rock Exotica) The Silent Partner was created by Mark Blanchard and the patent was granted in 1989. there's also, for the grigri, the method of drilling a small hole through it near the p in "Petzl" (don't hold me to that, I can't remember right off) and then attaching a tie-off (I think this may be what Erik is talking about) and clipping the tie off to your chest harness to keep the gri gri upright; again, though, more than one person in the know says that is not recommended as it increases the likelihood of the rope not catching while upside down. but the grigri is the most cost effective/easy way to solo. How can we improve SuperTopo? I have a friend that took a upside down fall on a soloist (didn't lock up) and got hurt. A good aid solo is Town Crier at Index. http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?pf_id=1428&idvariedad=4398. Yes, am very fond of mine also and not ready to part with it. It would be nice to get by with only spending $80 instead of $225, but I would much rather be safe and comfortable than cheap and dead. Your input will affect cover photo selection, along with input from other users. Quite frankly, a French guy very closely associated with a French manufacturer of caving and climbing equipment suggested the modification. I'm looking for the ultimate self belay device. Original file (1,600 1,200 pixels, file size: 374 KB, MIME type: image/jpeg). Beckwith also only suggests modifying the grigri (sawing off the flap and filing it down) if you intend to solo-free with it, and in this case you would also run it through a chest harness. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device.https://www.rockexotica.com/silent-partner/This Silent Partner is listed for sale elsewhere so the auction may be ended early. i would recommend not sawing off the flap on the grigri. If you use it in the official manner, backed up and all, there is a lot to learn and get used to. Thanks for the offer on the soloist, but my main goal for the device is aid climbin'. even tho I only use mine 1x/yr recently I'm not going to sell it. If you worry about having to feed out a bunch of slack to free a section when using a clove just treat it like a runoutplace good gear (double up, equalize, whatever you need) find the next rest/stance and gun for it. It still scares the heck out of me to fall on it, so I generally use it on easy climbs.

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